Christian Aid at 80 Part 11 - Haltwhistle to Housesteads

The journey from Cawfields Crag to Haltwhistle was swift and comfortable in the backseat of John and Judith’s car and there was a warm welcome awaiting us at the Methodist Church.
I freshened up with a quick wash down, changed into my Christian Aid T shirt and tucked the one I had been wearing deep into my backpack.
I nearly fainted when I saw the tiny teacups on the table so I produced my, much larger, reusable mug and asked for a fill up. The lady serving seemed to understand my requirement because as soon as I had drained it she came and filled it again.
Cyclists arrived. They had followed the Hadrians Cycleway from Carlisle Cathedral. Like the walk the route for cyclists also crosses the country from Ravenglass in Cumbria, up the coast to Bowness on Solway and on to South Shields.
We enjoyed a typical “Chapel Tea” and they kindly provided a “doggy bag” of leftovers so I didn’t need to venture out in the evening looking for food.
I caught up with the lady who had proposed the event all those months ago in Durham and she confessed that she had been overcome by the heat of the day and had cut her walk from Housesteads short. I also met Tim, another Christian Aid representative, who used to attend our Durham meetings before he moved to his present role further West. Tim kindly agreed to transport me back to Cawfields Crag the following morning.
After we left the celebration John and Judith walked the short distance to my accommodation and I was relieved  to find that my luggage had arrived safely.
I enjoyed a very comfortable night in Haltwhistle, although a bit noisy on the Main Street and was up early for my usual snack breakfast plenty of milk and juice which had been provided for me. Once again leaving my luggage to be collected I emerged into bright sunshine.
Tim picked me up as arranged and we set off travelling West out of Haltwhistle, he had made the mistake of thinking we were going to Walltown Crags. Even though I had missed the path over the crags the previous day I definitely did not want to cover the miles back to Cawfields again!
By 8am we arrived at the Cawfields Quarrry entrance and as I thanked Tim for his lift I made a mental note to make a donation to Christian Aid in lieu of transport costs.
Once again I was on my way and on my own, after a brief stop to take a picture of the Cawfields Crag and Quarry pool i made my way along the marked path and out into open countryside. Soon, looming ahead, was the first of the day’s crags. I knew this would be the hardest day and all the advice was to not do more than about 12 miles on that section. There were at least 15 hard miles ahead!
As the temperature slowly rose again the morning took on a familiar pattern. Approaching an enormous crag, slowly making my way up the stony path to the top, taking in the amazing view, and some of the best pictures from the whole journey, then slowly and carefully picking my way down the other side.
I was so focussed on the view on one of those summits that I didn’t notice the remains of the famous Sycamore Gap tree in the next dip. I was almost touching the fence surrounding the tree stump before I saw it. The atmosphere around it was one of quiet reverence. I felt a moment of regret that I had never seen that magnificent tree in all its glory. After two and a half hours of hard walking I was standing on a spot right on Hadrian’s Wall beside something probably as famous as the Emperor himself. A legend in its own small enclosure. Around me people from all over the world were discussing its fame and tragic downfall.
Words cannot describe the rugged beauty of the area as I slowly walked onwards.
I eventually sought refuge at Housesteads where I collected another stamp on my passport. If you have visited you will know that the Museum is at the top of the hill near the fort and the new visitor centre named The Sill is about half a mile down the hill, a journey I hope to make on another occasion.
As I entered the gate to the Museum a friendly voice said ‘hello’. The two ladies from the tearoom at Gilsland were resting outside. As I’d mentioned I was walking for Christian Aid when we met the day before they said they had regretted not giving me a donation and were pleased to see me again. They generously gave me £20 for my effort.
Lunch was a rapidly melting Magnum and a packet of crisps as there was little else on offer at the shop. I was still carrying enough snacks and water to keep me going. After the brief respite I was soon on my way back to the continuous grind of the crags in the heart of the day.
Will I make it to the end of day four?

 Next time. More familiar forts and the Military Road.